We hear it all the time here at Outlaw Race Engines. "I don't think I'm ready for nitrous." "I really don't want to rebuild my engine right now." "Isn't nitrous dangerous?"
To know why nitrous got this sort of stigma, we have to look back at where it originated from and how we got to this point of why people are so afraid to use it. We live in a day and age where technology has bridged the gap from old, unreliable, and dangerous setups to full kits built to ensure safety, maximize performance, and remain reliable. More on that later.
Nitrous was first introduced to the internal combustion engine to help boost the power output of the German air fleet in World War II. The original thought behind the use of nitrous was to supplement the amount of oxygen available for an internal combustion engine to operate at high altitudes. The higher you travel into the earths atmosphere, the thinner the air (and oxygen levels) get. Hence the use of nitrous to introduce MORE oxygen into the engine in an oxygen depleted environment. The only drawback at the time was the additional weight of the nitrous equipment along with the weight of the nitrous and additional fuel itself. In a low temperature liquified form, nitrous is incredibly stable and wasn't vulnerable to enemy fire. Nitrous on it's own is NOT combustible. Nitrous DOES accelerate the burn rate of a combustible material in a fire (or in a combustion chamber when mixed with atomized fuel).
Drag racers in the early 60's caught wind of the performance gains available by using nitrous oxide and began experimenting with it's capabilities. The internal combustion engine REQUIRES oxygen and fuel to generate power. The more atomized oxygen and fuel available, the more power the engine is able to create and that is exactly what nitrous does. It introduces more particles of oxygen into the combustion chamber. During that time, few people were truly using nitrous to it's fullest effect. Early adopters went through a literal trial by fire period attempting to maximize the performance and efficiency for drag racing purposes. Nitrous offered a competitive edge for years to come and was eventually banned by the NHRA for use in the Funny Car class for the 1983 race season. A "democratic vote" by fellow racers after Bill Meyer won the U.S. Manufacturers Funny Car Championship at Orange County International Raceway in 1982 brought an end to Meyers having a competitive edge over the field of racers not using nitrous. Meyers approach to nitrous was to use it minimally the same way the Germans did in WWII. At higher elevation tracks or on race days with high density altitudes, Meyers would use a bit more nitrous to ensure the right amount of oxygen got into the combustion chambers. Fellow racers cited problems with reliability as most were using it as a power adder and genuinely did not have an understanding of how to use nitrous in the same way that Bill Meyer understood it.
"See, nitrous CAN be dangerous for my engine!" We aren't going to deny that. You cannot simply install a nitrous kit, do nothing else, and expect to have a good experience with nitrous. Additional steps and parts are absolutely needed. Lets talk about what kit to start with and what we do here at Outlaw Race Engines to ensure our cars run hiccup free while still being incredibly competitive.
If you are new to nitrous, you probably aren't going to go out and use a multi stage kit to spray a 600 shot. To be honest, cars that use this much nitrous generally have purpose built engines with the understanding that nitrous will be the primary power adder for the race program. So, what are we talking about? We're talking about starting small and getting your feet wet. A small shot reduces the margin for error significantly but still offers an incredible value when we talk about horsepower per dollar spent. What does that mean for you, the noobie? Just start with a 75 or 100 shot setup and work your way up to a bigger shot as needed. The Nitrous Outlet X-Series Universal Wet Kit is a perfect choice for those new to nitrous as you can start small and still have the ability to turn the wick up as you become more and more familiar with using nitrous.
The Nitrous Outlet X-Series EFI Universal Nitrous Kit is a "wet" kit. This means that it uses one solenoid to introduce nitrous and one solenoid to introduce additional fuel into the engine. It's sprayed through a single nozzle that should be mounted approximately four to six inches away from the throttle body in the air intake tube. With all of that being said, Nitrous Outlet does make model specific kits. The cost is generally higher and the main difference is that the nitrous and fuel is introduced into the engine through a plate mounted between the throttle body and the intake manifold (think throttle body spacer with plumbing). If a plate kit is available for your vehicle, it's always a better option. This helps ensure nitrous is being consumed by all cylinders and not just some of them. If you are not getting even consumptions, you may see a rich condition in some cylinders and a lean condition in others at the same time (bad). We'll be posting another blog later this month going into more depth about plate specific kits so stay tuned. It should be noted that these vehicle specific plate kits ARE more expensive by a considerable amount.
Nitrous Outlet X-Series Universal EFI Single Nozzle System
X-Series. X-Series systems are designed for racers on a budget. Made from the same high quality parts and materials as other Nitrous Outlet systems, X-series systems feature a 1/16th nozzle and smaller solenoids than traditional Nitrous Outlet systems. X-Series systems can flow 175HP out of the box which is perfect for most stock engine late model performance vehicles.
Single Nozzle. This system includes everything needed to install a wet single nozzle system. 10lb nitrous bottle, solenoids, hoses, wiring, hardware and jetting for 50,100, and 150 HP included.
Wide Open Throttle Activation. This system includes a wide open throttle (WOT) switch. This switch only allows the system to be activated when the engine is at full throttle. This safety feature will help prevent engine damage from lean spikes or spraying nitrous without the engine in full vacuum. You WILL experience poor nitrous distribution and WILL see lean conditions in some cylinders and rich conditions in others if you are not at WOT when you activate your nitrous kit. Long story short, only use it when you are at full throttle.
So that's the basic kit. It's a little over $500.00 after shipping and taxes. It comes with ALMOST everything you need to use a nitrous system. With that said... accessorize! Nitrous Outlet and a few other companies make excellent tools that help take the guesswork out of using a nitrous system. BUY THEM AND USE THEM. They have been created and developed for a reason.
Lingenfelter LNC-2000 Launch Control and Timing Retard System. (LS Based Engines Only)
The Timing Retard capabilities of the LNC-2000 can be used to retard timing by up to 15 degrees. For nitrous oxide applications the timing retard can be activated using the dedicated timing retard activation input to the LNC-2000. In turbocharged and supercharged engines the amount of retard can be controlled by the boost level using the 3 bar MAP sensor input.
Nitrous Outlet WinMax TPS and RPM Activated Window Switch
What It Is:
The WinMax is a TPS activated RPM window switch. The backlit LCD display and bright LED indicators give the best in visibility. It is an extremely user-friendly device that is easy to read and program. The detailed step-by-step instructions walk you through setting up all of the available options. Plus, its Made in the USA!
What It Does:
The WinMax offers control of single or dual stage nitrous systems and single or dual trigger outputs for external timing retard units. It can be activated by rising or falling TPS signals or by a 12v WOT switch. RPM input can be configured for 1 to 12 cylinder 4-stroke engines with Distributor or coil on plug/coil near plug ignitions. It has a built-in programmable shift light as well as up to 3 programmable gear lockouts.
Why You Need It:
Any vehicle with a Throttle Position Sensor, especially Drive-by-Wire vehicles, benefit from the use of a TPS activation switch. We do not recommend activating the nitrous below 80% throttle, and the WinMax can be programmed to do this automatically. Also, activating the nitrous below 3000 RPM is not advised, so the window switch function can be programmed to activate the nitrous at or above that threshold and to deactivate it before you come up on your rev-limiter. Plus, you can program up to 3 gear lockouts, allowing you to launch and gain wheel speed before activating the nitrous so you maintain traction. Finally, the programmable shift light gives you a visual notification of your desired shift point with is bright LED indicators.
Nitrous Outlet X-Series Nitrous Bottle Heater with Installation Accessories For 10/15lb Bottles
Concise Bottle Pressure. This heater wraps around the bottle to warm the bottle to maintain optimal bottle pressure automatically. Bottle pressure is key in a well performing nitrous system, and helps keep a consistent flow of nitrous pass after pass.
Automatic. This bottle heater includes an adjustable bottle pressure switch that automatically activates the bottle heater as needed to maintain the inputted bottle pressure (750-1200 PSI).
Perfect Fit Guaranteed. Our bottle heaters have been tested, refined, and tested again to assure perfect fitment on 10, 12, & 15lb nitrous bottles of all brands.
Application. This bottle heater will fit all brand nitrous bottles and is easily installed and removed with velcro straps.
Nitrous Outlet Luminescent Nitrous Pressure Gauge
Easy to Monitor. The 1.5" white face of this gauge is easily visible during the day and glows bright in the dark so you can keep an eye on your systems bottle pressure at night. Maintaining system bottle pressure is vital for proper function of the system and its components.
0 to 1500. This heavy duty stainless gauge measures 0-1500 PSI and has color coded indicators to easily decipher if your system is at the proper pressure.
Application. This gauge has a 1/8in NPT threaded stem so it can be attached directly to a bottle valve or any manifold with a 1/8in port.
Nitrous Outlet X-Series 4AN Purge Kit
Improve Times:
Purge kits evacuate any air that may have become trapped in the main feed line that can cause delays, or surges in your nitrous system. Ridding your system of these air pockets results in improved 60ft, and ET at the track. Additionally, if your bottle pressure is too high, purging the system can relieve excess pressure to ensure you get the right amount of nitrous to flow when you use the system.
Cloud Effect:
This purge kits .063 orifice can flow up to 200 horsepower of nitrous which creates a strong white cloud of nitrous anytime the purge is activated.
Application:
This purge will work with any brand nitrous system on any make, model and year vehicle.
And that folks, is about it when we are looking at a basic but well performing nitrous kit. Now it's time to talk about a couple of standard rules that you need to know about using nitrous.
1. If you live in a warm climate environment DO NOT leave your bottle in your car when you're not using your nitrous kit. For good measure, we advise that you always remove the bottle regardless of where you live when you are not using your kit. ALWAYS TURN YOUR BOTTLE OFF before disconnecting the nitrous line. Don't forget that the pressure in the line is just as high as the pressure in the bottle.
2. Talk to your tuner or Nitrous Outlet about your fuel system. They may advise using larger injectors or possibly even moving to a dedicated standalone fuel system specifically for nitrous use. If you're spraying a 75-100 shot, you probably don't NEED a standalone fuel system but it's always an upgrade over pulling fuel from the stock fuel rails.
3. DO NOT USE NITROUS DURING YOUR BURNOUT. Yes, some purpose built race cars do need to use nitrous to get their burnout done but you, the late model muscle car owner does not. Throttle modulation and hitting the two step in your burnout while using nitrous can, and often does, result in a nitrous back fire. What does that mean? It means that nitrous and fuel ignite before making it into the combustion chamber and you can usually kiss your intake manifold, throttle body, and even cold air intake good bye. Nitrous backfires are entertaining for the crowd and they generally send a big fireball out from under the hood. But, for you, they're EXPENSIVE. So again DO NOT USE NITROUS DURING YOUR BURNOUT.
4. Use your purge just before you get staged. Purging makes sure your nitrous line is free of air pockets that can cause inconsistencies in your pass. Hold your purge button down until you have a steady stream of nitrous. At the same time, keep an eye on your bottle pressure. Purging can also be used to lower your bottle pressure to ensure you aren't getting a little more nitrous than you've bargained for but you'll want to target a specific bottle pressure for each run. Talk with your tuner or Nitrous Outlet about what is the right bottle pressure for your specific setup.
5. Turn your nitrous kit and bottle OFF when not is use. YES this means you should be turning the bottle off and purging the rest of the nitrous out of your lines between passes. If you happen to have a leaking solenoid, this procedure WILL save you from experiencing a nitrous backfire when you start your engine to head off for your next pass.
6. NEVER USE A TORCH TO HEAT YOUR BOTTLE. This can cause "hot spots" on your bottle where the material is becomes fatigued and may end up failing, leading to a bottle rupture. Remember that there is a significant amount of pressure inside that bottle and a sudden release of it's pressure via a bottle rupture would be absolutely devastating to the inside of your vehicle.
7. Never open your bottle without it being secured in the provided mounts AND connected to your nitrous line. The amount of pressure in a nitrous bottle could cause the bottle to fly out of your hands and potentially hurt someone. Even with only a pound of nitrous in the bottle, opening it without it being secured could potentially be deadly. Check out this video of Farm Truck and Asian goofing around with nitrous bottles. This could have absolutely injured or killed someone and should never be replicated.
8 . Additional parts may be needed during install. Your tuner may advise you to use a colder range spark plug or change the spark plug gap for use with nitrous. They may also ask you to use larger injectors to help supply your engine with adequate fuel. Listen to them. These guys know exactly how they want your setup to operate.
So that's about all there is to it. Nitrous is an absolute blast to use and it's a great way to pick up some extra horsepower for a fairly minimal amount of money. If you have additional questions or are interested in a nitrous kit, feel free to reach out to our awesome staff. If you're local to Arizona, we're happy to spec out, install, and help show you how to use a nitrous kit for your specific application. BONUS: We have everything mentioned in this article in stock and ready to go. Outlaw Race Engines also offers nitrous fills. Pricing can fluctuate but you can expect to pay between $5.00 - $10.00/lb of nitrous. Additionally, we only charge you for the amount of nitrous we fill. if you bottle has 5lbs worth of nitrous in it, you will only be charged for 5lbs of nitrous when we fill it up. Fills can usually be done on the spot IF your bottle is frozen. Our inhouse fill station requires us to create a low pressure environment inside your bottle by freezing it. We then heat our mother bottles to send nitrous from a high pressure environment into the low pressure environment(your bottle). If your bottle is not cold enough, the overall system pressure may exceed safe standards. When this occurs, we have to refreeze you bottle which may take a few hours. if your bottle is not frozen, you will need to leave it with us for the day. That way we can get it as cold as possible to make sure you get a quality fill.
Well, what are you waiting for? Lets go make some horsepower!